Surf Stories, Photos & Videos | A blog for surfers, sliders, short boarders & log riders
Gabriel Villaran, Cabo Blanco, Northern Peru
After hitting up Huntington Beach for a couple of days we made it down the coast to San Clemente where we stayed at the State Park in the RV. The park is about 5 mins walk from the beach and about 15 minute jog down the beach to Trestles.
We got it ok, nothing outstanding, but had a good time, meet some cool locals and saw a load of sea life including dolphins, seals and a shark!
A few shots from our walk along the boardwalk at Huntington Beach. Good times for the El Monte crew!
A belated update to the blog, as we’ve been in Vegas for the past 5 days for Ben’s wedding. We hit up Huntington Beach about a week ago in the RV and caught a few messy waves. Nothing special, but nice to be able to get out and get a few!
We’re off to LA tomorrow to pick up Cabo San L! But first we’re gonna have a down patrol surf sesh here at Pismo Beach, south of the pier is the spot to get some slabs, although with one unprovoked shark attack a few years back from an juvenile whitey, you’ve got to want it enough to risk a limb!
The question is do we want it enough?! Course we do!
During our stay at Pismo, Beej and I got involved with some Pismo Pier action and a trip to the local surf shop where Beej bought himself a new skateboard. Pancho’s was amazing, with a full selection of surf and skate apparel and collection of a load of old skool surfboards. An Aladin’s cave for sure!
By twist of fate, or lack of directions we ended up at Steamer Lane the other night. After a pretty intense session with plenty of localism and attitude we retired for some tasty Thai flavas and then camped down for the night in the RV.
The next morning we hit up Steamer Lane in the chill window when everyone was either at work or school, and with the swell being quite small it meant the die-hards weren’t out representing.
A chilled out session with plenty of sun, some small, but clean waves and no shark bites, result!
A short film/little bit of footage shot whilst on a recent trip to Morocco. We saw some amazing sights including Marrakech, Atlas Mountains, Sahara Desert and the Atlantic coast.
In the run-up to Beej’s wedding in a few weeks, we are hitting the road Stateside for just under 3 weeks of surf and outdoor adventures.
Check out our proposed route map below.
Pretty sick little trick this one!
Awesome film about surfing and it’s Irish roots. Here’s the official synopsis:
WAVERIDERS is the previously untold story of the unlikely Irish roots of the worldwide surfing phenomenon and today?s pioneers of Irish big wave surfing.
The story unfolds through the inspirational and ultimately tragic history of Irish/Hawaiian legendary waterman, George Freeth, the son of an Irishman, who was responsible for the rebirth of this sport of Hawaiian kings in the early twentieth century.
With its distinguished cast of world-renowned Irish, British and Irish/American surfers WAVERIDERS journeys full-circle from Hawaii to California and back to Irish shores following Freeth?s wave of influence. The journey reaches a spectacular climax when the surfers conquer the biggest swell ever to have been ridden in Ireland by catching monster waves of over fifty feet.
