Posted on

Big sets and fin cuts

The past 2 days surf have been pretty intense, I bought 3 more fins: 2 mini ones and a big 6 inch single fibreglass fin. I have been experimenting with different set-ups to see how the fish would respond. It has been pretty interesting, especially in the bigger surf (5-7ft) we have been having over the past few days. I have got some pretty big rides and also suffered some pretty big wipeouts. I also managed to cut a 1 inch chunk out of my foot today with the new 6 inch fin and left a small trail of blood that followed me up the beach.

Tonight I went out for some food and a few beers with some friends from the hostel and had a good laugh. Hopefully tomorrow will be a repeat of today in terms of weather and surf, but without the wipeouts. I feel a lot better today than I did yesterday about everything, hopefully by keeping busy, things will continue to improve, although when I stop and chill for a while I tend to think about Elise and miss her.

Anyway time to hit the sack and think good thoughts about scoring some more waves tomorrow!

2 thoughts on “Big sets and fin cuts

  1. Come on ben! You must remember to sand down the sharp fin edges…. An early surfer lesson!

  2. if your gonna chop anyone up, keep it to the “edge of your hand” variety…

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *