Big sets and fin cuts

The past 2 days surf have been pretty intense, I bought 3 more fins: 2 mini ones and a big 6 inch single fibreglass fin. I have been experimenting with different set-ups to see how the fish would respond. It has been pretty interesting, especially in the bigger surf (5-7ft) we have been having over the past few days. I have got some pretty big rides and also suffered some pretty big wipeouts. I also managed to cut a 1 inch chunk out of my foot today with the new 6 inch fin and left a small trail of blood that followed me up the beach.

Tonight I went out for some food and a few beers with some friends from the hostel and had a good laugh. Hopefully tomorrow will be a repeat of today in terms of weather and surf, but without the wipeouts. I feel a lot better today than I did yesterday about everything, hopefully by keeping busy, things will continue to improve, although when I stop and chill for a while I tend to think about Elise and miss her.

Anyway time to hit the sack and think good thoughts about scoring some more waves tomorrow!

2 thoughts on “Big sets and fin cuts”

  1. Come on ben! You must remember to sand down the sharp fin edges…. An early surfer lesson!

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