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Ripping it at Nusa Dua and Legian…

Today we got up at 5.30 a.m for a proper dawn patrol. The place; Cangoo, the crew; Me, Sulli, Wanyo and Mikey. We got to Cangoo for about 7.30 am, but the surf was completely pants. We stopped off for some breakie (banana and honey pancakes) and then decieded to head over to Nusa Dua on the east coast.

Nusa Dua is a reef break that sits about 750 metres offshore. You can choose to get the boat out to the break or you can paddle out. I thought I’d put Sulli through the works and make him, me and Mikey paddle out to the break. 15 minutes later we reached the break, the reef is about waist deep, and a mixture of sharp and soft coral.

The water was clean, glassy and you could see the coral and sea-bottom beneath your feet. The water had some star fish, urchins and the odd flying fish jumpig out of the water. At first I was a little apprehensive, on the basis that I have only surfed over coral reef once before. But once I had taken a few waves I was pumped and ready for more.

The wave face was between 4-6 foot, with clean peeling faces and offshore winds.

4 hours past, and Mikey and I had been ripping up the break, Mikey with some nice 2-3 foot airs over the back of the wave and me claiming a dozen or so back and front hand rides.

We then headed back over to Legian beach on the west coast and found that is was also pretty clean and cross/offshore. So the four of us headed out and gave the place a good going over for an hour or so.

Late afternoon saw us chilling at the pool for a few beers, and then out tonight for a team feed at our fave local tucker shop, Indo-national.

Its great when you surf, as apparently you burn 650 calories per hour. Well I surfed 5 hours today, really pushing it, including a 1.5km paddle out to the break and back, so I figure it is all good!

Have now gone an obscenely dark shade of brown, (and it has been mostly cloudy here all week) that I am looking almost native Balinesse!

Well that wraps it up for another day in paradise, hopefully the swell and sun will come out to play in the morning.

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