Today Rose and I made the trip down the coast from Massaguacu to Maresias, via Sao Sebastiao. We are staying at the Tambayba Hotel Pousada, an Indonesian-style resort set in lush, tropical surroundings.

The surf was pretty intense today and I felt a little out of my league alongside a handful of local surfers. The set waves were in the region of a good 6ft, very thick, fast and pretty hollow. I haven’t surfed waves like this since Fiji a few years back, and more recently at Itamambuca. I think I got about 3 waves in the space of about an hour, not that many to be fair, but at least I didn’t snap my board on the (heavy) lip of the wave (i’ve already broken 2 leashes and a fin).

I’ll give it another bash in the morning.


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