So the 2 week surf-fest had to come to an end. Am back on Terra firma now after having a wicked week in Devon and then a second in Portugal.
The first week was spent surfing my arse off in Croyde with the Lee Bay Massive (a.k.a BJC, P-dog and Luke), many a wave, many a beer and many a Caipirinha were served, all good fun.
The second week me and P-dog hit up the Southern Coast of Portugal for a week’s surfing in the Lagos area. We had a wicked time with the Extreme Holiday’s crew and partied pretty damn hard every night, with the earliest we went to bed being 2.30am and then latest something like 7am, pretty hardcore.
We met some great folks, and ended up sharing a room with 2 great guys: Tim and James who pretty much made the holiday. We had a cool surf instructor called Eurico,who told some great stories and really made us feel welcome.
I managed to surf between 5-6 hours every day, with the wave size varying between 1-5ft on the face. I surfed the 6’0, 6’4 and 9’2 all giving unique rides. It was great to have such a varied week’s surfing, from dropping into some nice pits with a nice steep take-off, to some really mellow right handers that peeled off a nice reef called “Pliers”. The last day was spent on the 9’2 and I was loving it, moving up and down the board, getting in my first floater and generally ripping it up to the extent that I nearly passed out on the beach afterwards from exhaustion.
I was also stoked when one of the instructors told me with a little practice I could easily go out to Fuerte’ and become a surf instructor with Extreme, so that was a huge compliment. I feel my surfing has improved a huge amount over the past few weeks, and I can’t wait to get back in the sea as soon as we get some decent swell coming through.
Back to work tomorrow, looking forward to seeing everyone and will pop up some photos from the hols soon.