Today has been a real cracker! Dru and I decided to hit the beach early, well kinda early, woke at 7am, got breakied up, left the house for 8.30 and made the journey down to Cocoa Beach (home of Kelly Slater).
We stopped off at a few surf shops, the infamous Ron Jons, which actually had a pretty poor selection of boards, but nice staff, and then Cocoa Beach Surf Company. The later had a great selection of boards, and again I was sorely tempted to add a forth board to my quiver. There were some real tasty fish boards, I had my eye on a 5’10, real retro styling, but was strict with myself and opted for a Starbucks frap instead!
Dru and I then hit Cocoa Beach, the wind was up and the clouds were out and the waves were poor, but I got in the water all the same! 5 hours later I had got a whole bunch of (small) waves, gotten a load of sun and then chilled up on the pier with Dru having a beer!
I have regained the tan (well some of it) and all is good! We have just been for a dirty-ass 18 inch pizza and now on our way home to chill the fuck out some more, as after 5 hours in the water I am physically knackered! I met a cool crew down at Cocoa, some young surfers, who were all up for a chat and also dug my little left cut along the wave whilst running my hand along the face.
Lets hope the rest of the week stays sunny and chilled, I love this lifestyle, ok I am not working at the moment so that kinda chills it out even more, but one day I will live and work near the ocean, surf daily and generally be stoked and happy every day, I have kinda come round to the idea that it all isn’t about money and material shit, ok granted you need a certain amount of dough to have a nice house and eat nice food, but fast cars, the latest clothes, fuck that, just give me a house near the sea, and rack full of boards, a good crew, some good tunes, plenty of sunshine and a lovely girlfriend, and I am done! God I think I am turning into either a Californian or an Ozzie! Doh!
Oh yeah I think I have another surf convert, Dru wants to get back into shape and start surfing! Another one to add to the global crew, it’s all about spreading the love man!