So I was thinking back to when I was over in Fiji with the dominator crew this morning, so I gazed over to www.fijisurf.com to check out the photos Jason had taken from the boat in the channel and saw this one. It immediately threw me back to King Kong Left. This picture was taken by Jason on the first day I was at the resort, I remember having this look of dread on my face when I paddled out, thinking shit, this is mini Teahupoo, most of the other surfers agreed, the only difference between us is that these boys had 5 -10 years worth of surfing experience on top of my modest 3!
Anyway one day I hope to return, maybe to Nagigia, or maybe somewhere new, either way, I will never forget looking at those faces and thinking, shit, I am never gonna make one of them! But I did, maybe not as big as the one in the picture, but I got there!
Picture taken by Jason