Today has been another wicked day in the grand old US of A. Awoke this morning to a kinda cloudy day. Stopped in at the hostel kiosk for breakie and a chat with some of the other guests, before heading off to Ocean Beach to get some surfing in. I stopped off at Fort Point where I got a lacca view of Alcatraz and also the Golden Gate bridge.
It kinda feels like a home-coming surfing back in cold water (12 degrees), you can’t beat the cold water experience, there is something about it, some hate it, I don’t mind so much! Granted you need more neoprene and don’t get the tan, but taking a few (waves) on the head sure wakes you up!
So I met the local crew, a cool mid-forties surfer called Scott who introduced me to a few of the other guys in the line up and surfed for about 3 hours. Caught some nice waves, traded stories and generally did what surfers do! I also saw a seal and sea lion in the line-up which kinda shit me up a little.
Early arvo/evening I headed up to Filmore and Haight to meet Sabine (an old work mate) for a drink. The bus journey across town was an experience in itself, with loads of interesting people to look at and talk to on the way.
After a couple of beers we headed over to the other side of town to meet up with Stacey and all headed out for some Thai food. Had a nice feed, went for a night cap and then I headed back to my hostel.
I am constantly amazed at how friendly and nice people are to me, especially here in the states, I am not sure if it is ‘cos I am out of town, or if it is just how yanks are, but it is very cool! I kinda feel on a role at the moment, kinda like on maximum mojo. Surfing well, seeing great things, everyone likes me, everyone is kind, everything is interesting, can’t complain about that at all! I must be putting out some positive karma and vibes or something, as all the good energy is coming right back to me!
Anyway off to bed now as got to be fresh for the waves in the morning. Have got the stoke on about tomorrow already, another day, another adventure, wish this trip would last a lifetime, but I guess I will have to go home and top up the funds at some point, and then go and do the next one!
Living the dream! You can’t beat that!